Life In The Saddle

I am a huge fan of 29ers. I remember when the big wheeled machines raised scepticism and doubtful abuse – " it's a tractor! "; but now they are accepted to be the faster, more comfortable and more efficient wheel choice for a cross country mountain bike. The issue with the 29 inch wheel size, from an aerodynamic viewpoint, is that it raises the front end significantly—naturally positioning the rider in a more upright position than the 'racing tuck'. Other than creating tiny tiny headtube lengths, the solution is to adjust the cockpit set-up to provide the most efficient racing position. This typically involves the introduction of flat handlebars and a negative drop stem angle. The interesting side development in cross country bike cockpits over the last five years has been the growth in the popularity of wider handlebars. Wider bars offer greater leverage, better control and often improved comfort compared to the narrow bars previously found on cross country ...

Bike frames, whether made from carbon fibre or steel are surprisingly robust—they can withstand big drops, heavy loads, and the constant pounding of rough terrain. What they do not deal so well with are the stone chips, cable rub, and pinpoint impacts that can occur during everyday use. These are a few simple tricks to help protect your bike frame from damage—helping to prolong its strength and life. Chips and cracks on bike frames and paintwork are most likely to occur in a few select areas. The chainstays and downtube are prime subjects; where chain slap and pebble dash bombard the frame. Luckily, there are a few inexpensive and neat tricks that you can do to protect your bike frame. Chainstay Protection Most people know that the drive-side chainstay on a bike is vulnerable to chain slap—that annoying clacking as you ride over rough surfaces and the chain bounces on the stay. At best it will chip the paint—at worst it could cause more serious frame damage. On any frame it...

If you've read my post ' Top Tips for Tubeless Tyres ', you'll know that a tubeless 'plug' is a really useful device, for plugging larger holes in a tubeless tyre that your sealant is struggling to fill. The idea of a tubeless plug is pretty simple. It is a needle with a strip of rubber threaded through it; to plug the hole, you push the rubber strip into the hole, then pull it back through just enough to leave the rubber strip wedged in the hole. You then cut off the loose ends with some scissors or a knife. Tubeless plugs, or bungs (as they are also known) are great at filling in flint cuts and other puncture repairs that your tubeless sealant is struggling to solidify in. The only trouble with them, is that the sharp needle isn't the ideal thing to house in your saddlebag, next to your inner tubes (for obvious reasons). More pressing though, is that in order for a tubeless plug to work, you to get it into the hole pretty quickly; so having it access...