Life In The Saddle

The #CelticCrossTrail will be a 2000 kilometre journey from Inverness to the Isle of Wight; encompassing many parts of the Highland 550 Trail in Scotland, the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland, and the Brecon Beacons in Wales. The route will offer up a diverse and incredible mix of scenery and terrain. From the rugged Highlands and North Coast of Scotland, down the Mull of Kintyre, then across to Ireland by ferry. On Irish soil the route heads out to the Atlantic coast to see the iconic cliffs and harbours of the exposed western shoreline. Then, turning south and east, the path goes across the Irish Sea from Rosslare to Fishguard, and the journey continues through Wales, down to Bristol, and back to the Isle of Wight. See the route map here . 12 days of riding, through some of the most remote regions of the British Isles. This is the kit that I have personally selected for the tour... Luggage and Camp Kit Prototype Waterproof Panniers Prototype Waterproof Frame Bag Prot...

I stirred from a deep sleep at 04:30 this morning, and headed to the Stena Lines ferry breakfast buffet for one last fuel-up. The final day of this trans-European tour was always going to be a big one. Rolling back onto terra firma at 06:30, I headed out of Harwich ferry port and onto the quiet and deserted lanes of Essex. As with all my route planning for this trip, it wasn't about taking the most direct route to get to Portsmouth, but rather the most interesting and enjoyable. The result was that I was taken through sleepy villages, open farmland, and past beautiful estuaries as I rode south and west towards London. The route was beautiful, but it seemed slow. I knew I had over 270 kilometres to cover today, and that seemed like a hell of a distance on a bike weighing 26 kilograms fully loaded, and with legs that felt like dead weights. By mid-morning I was through Colchester, Chelmsford, and nearing the outskirts of London. Passing directly through the Capital was the ...

What a perfect end to the Continental leg of the #RoadsFromRome. After a great rest day with my Dutch family, today's ride to the ferry was a tour of The Netherland's great bike paths and scenery. The day started with a relaxed breakfast, and then coffee and apple cake with my cousins. I feel such a strong connection with the Dutch side of my family; we share so much in common, and could talk for hours. At 11 o'clock it was time to take to the road again though, and I rolled out of Veenendal in a westerly direction, heading towards the coast. I had been pessimistic to think today's route might have been boring or dull. It was flat, but it was beautiful. A mix of deserted bike paths through forests, along dykes, around windmills, and through the vast agricultural plains of northern Holland. There were a few specks of rain in the early afternoon, but then the sun came out. By the time I reached the coast it was casting dramatic rays on the wind swept North S...

I packed up my final wild camp of the trip this morning, and rolled out onto the flatter north German roads. With the promise of a stay with family this evening, a rest day tomorrow, and just a flat run-in of 180 kilometres to get there, I was in good spirits. I stopped at the first supermarket I could find, as yesterday's closures had seen me empty my rations bag, and I needed some fuel and water to get me through the next seven hours. Buoyed by patisserie, coffee, and peanut butter on rye bread, I was making good progress. By 13:00 I had reached Holland, and had just 80 kilometres left. I stopped at a café to celebrate. Not long after, the real Netherlands began to materialise. The long flat dykes, huge bridges, pristine cycle paths, and presence of hundred of bicycles of all shapes and sizes. The sun came out too, and the wind swung round to bring a cross-tailwind rather than the northerly headwind I have encountered all weekend. I pedalled on hard, excited to see ...

I remember planning today's route; I was in a rather romantic / masochistic frame of mind. I selected the smallest twisty roads I could find on the map. The result... a tough but beautiful day. From my hill top camp the road descended for several miles, before beginning to climb. I reached the summit of that hill, descended, and went straight into the next climb. This pattern repeated itself, time and time again. Each climb was unique, with some twisting singletrack roads, and technical swooping descents. None of the climbs were especially big, certainly no higher than 600 metres. The speed crippling thing was the volume of them, and their unrelenting presence. A particular highlight was the descent down into the Mosel valley. The wide open river is flanked on both sides by steep slopes lined with vines. Of course, there was a substantial climb to get back out of it... Beauty and the Beast. I got caught out by the Sunday supermarket closures today, so was digging deep...

This morning was a bit of a struggle. The legs were fine; in fact they felt a lot fresher for their two days of total rest. I can't complain about the route either; within a few hours of starting the sun was shining, and the road was almost all downhill out of the Black Forest. The struggle was a mental one... I am usually pretty good at being by myself, but after two fantastic days with my sister and baby nephew, it suddenly felt very lonely out on the road. It also seemed like a long way to go before seeing another friendly face in Holland in three days time. I struggled to get my head back in the game. Things improved as the day went on. Some good coffee and cake, some beautiful deserted roads, and good progress northwards; they all helped to boost my spirits. Mid afternoon I climbed up a stunning forest road that was completely empty, as it was shut from traffic for road works. Luckily, I was able to sneak through, and had the strip of fresh tarmac all to myself. I h...

Today began with a beautiful sunrise, sat drinking coffee in my wild camp high in the Austrian Alps. It finished with the comfort of family at my sister's home in Villingen. Between the two came mountains, lakes, sunshine, and thunderstorms. I began by descending down the remainder of Hahntennjoch Pass, onto the valley floor below. Once onto the deep valley below, I immediately transitioned into a long and gradual rise towards the top of Hochtannberg Pass. This final Alpine climb of the tour was cool and pleasant. I stopped for a quick coffee and a second breakfast just before the summit, but otherwise kept spinning the legs to the summit at 1675 metres. It was a fast and flowing descent from Hochtannberg, heading westwards alongside the river. There was only one notable climb left before arrival at Bregenz, in the form of the punchy Bodele Losen Pass, which heads up through pastures and farmland, looking back on the wide Alpine valley. From Bodele to Bregenz. I could smel...

Today was as close to bike touring perfection as they come. Beautiful climbs, amazing views, and a superb start and end point to the ride. My day started in the luxury of the Hotel Terme Merano. Yesterday afternoon I enjoyed relaxing in the Sky Spa, then a four course meal, followed by a 10 hour sleep, and a huge breakfast this morning. I started the day feeling rejuvenated and eager to ride. Straight out from Merano I was into the ascent of Timmelsjoch. Gradual at first, it rolls up the valley floor, and then with 35 kilometres to go it begins to ramp up. Round broad hairpins, through forested stretches, and then out onto the open slopes. The views of the snow sprinkled summit were enough to keep me looking skywards rather than staring at my stem; while the feeling of fresher legs and a full stomach kept me pedalling strong. By the summit it was gone midday, and the sun was beating down. It lit up the winding hairpins I had just scaled, and meant even the descent from the...

I had a good night in the cooler temperature of the Dolomites last night - it was a change to need to wear all of my clothing to bed, and use my sleeping bag rather than lie on top of it. The day started with a great little descent down one of South Tyrol’s many beautiful dedicated cycle paths. Weaving through apple plantations, it felt like familiar ground; I really do love this region. Today was always planned to be a short day, and because of a change of schedule I was even more keen for it to be - rather than stay in Merano for two nights, I have decided to push on into Austria tomorrow, in the knowledge that my pace over the passes is slower than planned, and also because of forecast weather coming in. In effect, it means today is my rest day. The only climb of the day was up and over into the Val d'Ultimo. I stopped for breakfast at the bottom, and then cracked on with the decent length climb. It still clocked over 1500 metres elevation gain, but on almost deserted...

Today started in the flatlands of northern Italy, and gentle backroads took me northwards into Lombardy. Before long I was at the southern tip of Lake Garda, and worked my way up the western shore. A comedy moment came when I jumped on the wheel of one of the many cycling clubs riding the lake's shores, and then realised so too had the 60+ year old gent in the canvas shorts and beret on the 20 year old Peugeot that I had just passed. It was comical because we actually ended up overtaking and leading out the entire cycling club on the next small climb. I gave him a solid "Bravo!" when we did part ways. As I left the lake behind, the road climbed gradually alongside the river. Passing deep blue lakes and taking me ever closer to the distinctive Dolomite peaks. By 16:00 I was at the foot of the final climb for the day - the Madonna Di Campiglio. I stopped for a coffee and gelato, and then began the 15 kilometre climb into the mountains proper. It was a beautiful...

Straight out of camp, and into the first climb - a Haute Categorie 15 kilometre ascent of the San Pellegrino in Alpe. It is a serious 9.5% average, with frequent ramps of 15% and the final three kilometres often 18%. I was reduced to grinding pace before long, and my speed even fell so low at times that my computer auto-paused. It was a true beauty and the beast climb though, with amazing views out over the villages below. At the summit, I began one of the best descents that I have ridden to date... starting with single-track road, then wide new tarmac; it was a constant thrill for over 30 kilometres. After a lunch stop of pizza, patisserie and espresso from a bakery, I continued further down the valley and onto the flat lands around Modena. Strava routing did me proud, and it took me on a great mix of small country lanes and relatively deserted B-roads for the rest of the day. Even the thunderstorm that arrived mid-afternoon was quite welcome and refreshing. By 18:30 I...

Not a great first wild camp last night - I made the mistake of camping too close to a house, and the little dog was barking solidly until 3am. Still, waking up to the view of the Tuscany hills is pretty special. After a quick bag of freeze dried porridge, and a coffee, I hit the road. It was 40 kilometres from my wild camp to Siena, and they were mostly quiet backroads signposted with the familiar names of 'L'Eroica' and 'Via Francigena'. I recognised a few sectors from riding the Strade Bianchi GrandFondo last year. The final ramp into the city is notorious, but once you are in the cobbled streets it really is something special. After a second breakfast of coffee and the best donut I have ever eaten, on a side street off the main piazza, I was set for the day. Heading north from Siena I went through small villages and towns bustling with Tuscany life. A lengthy climb took me up onto a plateau at one stage; providing amazing views out over the plain...

The #RoadsFromRome will be my third trans-European bike tour. It is interesting to compare my set-up from the #CoastsandCols and #7Countries7Passes  rides; things have evolved, developed, and been refined over the last three years. Kit selection for a bicycle touring / bikepacking trip like this is a very personal choice, so here is a run down of the apparel, accessories and gadgets that are coming along for this year's 2500 kilometre ride... Luggage and Camping Kit My luggage and camping kit largely come from two brands: Thule and Vaude. The lightweight one-man tent, summer weight down sleeping bag, and casual shorts and tee all come from Vaude. The small pannier set and handlebar bag provide a well-made fully waterproof luggage solution from Thule.   Thule Shield Rear Panniers Thule Shield Handlebar Bag Restrap Frame Bag Small  [ reviewed here ] Vaude Lizard GUP 1P Tent Vaude Rotstein 200 Down Sleeping Bag Vaude Sleeping Pad Vaude Thermal Seat C...

The Via Francigena is an ancient pilgrim route running from Canterbury to the Vatican, on gravel paths and minor roads. It traverses Europe, and takes in some of the most spectacular landscapes en-route. This historic path is the inspiration for my latest bikepacking adventure… the #RoadsFromRome tour. The Route Rather than start from Canterbury, I have opted to make this a ' Long Way Home ' ride: flying out to Rome, and then riding back across Europe. It makes more sense logistically, and is also an opportunity to see some familiar roads from the #7Countries7Passes , but from the opposite direction. Starting from Rome, I will ride out on the newly signposted EuroVelo5 route, which traces the Via Francigena. The gravel roads soon turn into Strade Bianche, as the path heads into Tuscany and through the historic cities of Sienna and Luca. This is a region of Italy that I have been longing to explore after riding the Strade Bianche Grand Fondo last year. From Tusca...